June 20, 2019
The Springs . . .
There's the town, Pagosa Springs, and then there are The Springs, touted to be the deepest hot springs in the world. Don't know that the origin matters much, but I do love soaking in those wonderful odoriferous pools overlooking the San Juan River.
A big surprise this visit was that the lower level of pools had been wiped out by the torrents of flood water ripping down the San Juan. The region is experiencing historically high water levels causing evacuations and flooding in many areas. Looks as if those sand bags didn't quite do the trick.
Placid pools belie the river thundering below. Rafters continue to enjoy the experience of riding the fast current - most of them, anyway. While we were there, one raft dumped most of its passengers into the cold water where they floated along until the boat was able to pick them up again.
This is my favorite pool because of the waterfall that massages a person's neck and head just right if they know where to stand under it.
Pagosa has many wonderful historic sites; the American Legion Post pictured below is a sturdy handsome log structure, formerly a schoolhouse that was relocated from a mountain region to Pagosa in 1947. It was built in 1909.
Treasure Falls . . .
Our decision to revisit Treasure Falls up near Wolf Creek Pass could not have come at a better time. Extreme snowfalls over the winter have rendered all waterways into raging torrents, and certainly Fall Creek was no exception.
We have gone there a couple of times before and always enjoy the magical quality of climbing up via the primitive trail as opposed to the more utilized groomed route. We enjoyed the tender new-spring-green foliage through which we climbed.
I was entranced by my first glimpse of the cascade's mist reaching far out from its source through the thick canyon foliage . . .
. . . as the water tore its way crashing over the rocks on its way to join the San Juan River hundreds of feet below.
We couldn't resist culminating the climb by trekking the final steep slick-mud slope to the so-called "misty landing". A bit of a misnomer, more appropriately for this season would be: "completely instantly drenched in frigid snow-melt water; needles to say, we didn't stick around out there.
Once we managed to dry off our glasses enough to see out, we enjoyed the views across the San Juan Valley.
Fawn Gulch, Coal Creek Trail . . .
On our way to somewhere else, we turned off onto the Fawn Gulch Road, a nice national forest access. A local rancher was moving his yearlings from one pasture to another. The cattle were unperturbed by our passage in the truck.
On a whim (yes, another one), we decided to hike out from the end of the road on the Coal Canyon Trail, a decision that was quickly quashed when we came to the first creek crossing, an impassable river roaring with snow melt instead of its usual hop across on rocks traverse.
No matter, with a short backtrack, we found another way: a path of sorts through the otherwise impenetrable forest. That trail followed an absurdly steep route and became little more than a trace to follow as we stumble/climbed through a morass of tangled foliage, requiring hoists over fallen trees blocking the way. As elsewhere, flowers brightened our way. . .
. . . and we were secure with our bear gear when we spotted signs of bruin activity such as this torn-up log.
Our view at lunchtime was more of the same dense tangled mat that we stumbled through to get there.
The drive out on Faun Gulch Road took us through park-like regions with more open space, often floored with a short oak brush . . .
. . . or flower-filled park-like meadows.
As we ambled along (we have perfected the vehicle amble) on the narrow winding dirt road, a dusky grouse flushed out from the roadside brush. I hoped to get a better look at it, so we backed up and as we did, a young buck with velveted antlers poked his head up from where we had interrupted his afternoon nap.
Piedra River . . .
A day of relative sunshine encouraged us to take up our previously lightning-delayed hike into the Piedra River Gorge, which seemed especially intriguing because of the flooding river. The gorge and the valley beyond are some of our favorite places to explore there.
A little exchange . . .
As we headed off into the gorge, we were hailed by another hiker, a Complete Stranger, who was looking for directions to a point of interest. My reply would have been something along the lines of "It's up yonder". After all, we had been to the site only once and that was several years ago. Thus I was a bit surprised when the señor offered excellent and specific directions.
It went like this:
C.S.: Do you know how to get to Piedra Falls?
The señor (with extreme confidence): Yes. It's eight miles out on the Piedra River Road and when you come to the Williams Reservoir, continue past for another mile to the trailhead and then a hike to the falls.
C.S.: Great, thanks!
Me: (and this was my total lame contribution) It's pretty.
I had to admit I was pretty darned impressed that he had offered such specificity, that is until we headed up that way later and discovered that his directions were completely incorrect . . . I hope they found the place despite us.
The Hot Shots . . .
I was surprised and moved to tears at the Riff Raff Brewpub when I saw a memorial to our Granite Mountain Hotshots, gone six years ago this month. After some questioning, we learned that the founders/brewers of the restaurant were former Prescottonians, thus explaining the presence of the cenotaph.
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